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Reveille comes at 6 am via Mike on his harmonica. The plane is to arrive around  9:00  to take us to Glacier Lake. We eat breakfast, break camp, and carry our kit down to the dock, all in a light rain. Then we wait.

A fourteen year old with braces, along with a band of like-aged campers from Ontario are on the dock too. The young man is articulate and mature and speaks of climbing to the alpine meadows. I try to imagine his future when at fourteen he has seen this place!

Our twin otter, the workhorse of the north, arrives around eleven. I get a single seat on the port side right behind the bulkhead in full view of a very complicated looking instrument panel.NoDay6-8-3319untitled

We head up river, leaving the falls and its rhythmic roar behind. Marsh, trees, ponds and more trees spread out below. Three trumpeter swans sit on a lake.

As we near Rabbit Kettle Lake I see the tufa mounds. They are the largest in Canada and have been formed over the last 10,000 years by activity deep in the earth that causes water to percolate up through the its crust dissolving calcium carbonate from the limestone on its way to the surface.  At the surface the calcium carbonate particles settle and form porous rims around pools.  It is a unique and protected landscape.NoDay6-6-3326untitled

As the weather is closing in, the pilot finds he cannot take us to Glacier Lake so he sets down on Rabbit Kettle that is at the southern end of the Park. It will be home for the next two days. The warden who is on his way back to Fort Simpson hitches a ride out on our plane.

We cart the supplies along the edge of the lake until we find an amazing campsite.NoDay6--7-3461untitled The view of the emerald water is superlative. The ragged mountains peek through the clouds and are partially obscured by light rain. Lunch isn’t until 3:30 but who cares!

A Grebe floats by. A Bald Eagle sits in a tree. I have learned to look for ”golf-balls” in trees!No-Day6-1-3382untitled

I feel patriotism in my heart. I see snow on the mountains.

Out the window in my tent, the evening light dances across the sky and a sea of greens. It is magic.

Tomorrow we will walk to the tufa mounds that I saw from the air.NoDay6-5-3343untitled

The last sound I hear today is the call of a Whiskey Jack.No-Day6-4-3348untitled